Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

I found a new favorite city.  Well, not my very most favorite, but Ho Chi Minh City has soul.  It has everything I was missing in Bali.  I mean everyone loves a good beach, but maybe I just like a good crowded city.

We got in last night, fresh off the plane... first stop, immigration.  I was somewhat sad about the 45 USD for a 30 day visa, but I mean, once you hit the streets, it really is worth it.  at 20000+ Dong per USD, you instantly become a Vietnamese millionaire.  I mean, yeah, that visa costs 1million dong, but I mean, there are still plenty of good deals to be had.  Fine food for under 5 USD for a meal, sometimes under 2 USD, not to mention fresh fruit and drinks you could only dream of at home.  Yesterday, I had a passion fruit juice, fresh for under about 1 USD.  Today I had a fresh coconut for a little more.  Then, I had another one.

Immigration was funny though, all the foreigners lined up - worried.  We are all worried about how we will get into Vietnam.  The immigration officials are rather strict.  They were friendly enough with me but they were giving us all a good once over.  We all needed our pre approved welcome letters and photos and 45 USD.  Question - where do you get 45 USD when you haven't been home in a while.  Question - why are dollars the preferred currency for a transaction to get into a Vietnam.  Answer - because the world and life is funny.  More on that tomorrow.

One reason I like Vietnam is because the Vietnamese like what I like.  They like good coffee, they like good fish, they like fresh fruit.  Those things alone are the basis of a wonderful culture.  So first thing this morning when I got lost, I walked to the nearest coffee house, ordered a cup, used the abundant wifi and plotted my direction.  I was headed to the war remnants museum a few blocks away.  I drank my coffee, had a second cup and was one my way.   I felt guilty for indulging, but I think the Vietnamese iced coffee might be better than the Thai iced coffee.  It is strong, with condensed milk added and is simply wonderful.  I don't know how Starbucks exists here, but they do.  I guess there is enough love of coffee to go around.

So on the agenda for today was a trip to Unification Palace, where we went on the official tour, which deserves and will get its own post, then we went to the War Remnants museum.  We also visited a couple of other French structures and then went to the market.

More pictures will follow.  Oh, Asari, right off the airplane at the airport in Ho Chi Minh City, this was waiting - this picture is just for you.

Massage

So in my pursuit to remain mellow and relaxed rather than turn to negative habits I have found a nice way to relax, the massage.  A proper massage can vary depending on the provider, but I will be writing about the differences and similarities between three types I have received so far in Asia, the Thai massage, the proper Chinese massage and the Balinese massage.  Each massage has its own merits for what makes it a good massage, however my favorite massage is a Thai massage - given by a Chinese masseuse.

Reclining Buddha

Wat Po

So Thai massage was my first foray into professional massage therapy.  I visited Wat Po, which is a temple dedicated to massage and the massage of Buddha.  Christopher and I both visited massage therapists for one hour who provided a very respectable service.  My masseuse was a bit heavy handed, but was very professional.  I stared jealously at Christopher's masseuse.  She seemed to have the perfect touch, but alas, another day.  Wat Po is also a training center, so I imagine my masseuse was not only well trained but also a trainer who was keeping all the hidden secrets of Thai massage and passing them through to me with gentle massage.  Maybe not, but it was at least a relaxing massage.

Later while visiting one of the beach cities, Cha am, I received a better Thai massage.  I think the masseuse used a better technique and it was a generally more relaxing massage.  The massage was from foot to head and back.  Oil was included.  The pressure applied was nearly perfect, which is why I prefer the Thai massage.  I think overall I prefer woman masseuse to men, because the touch.  It is somehow easier for most women to add pressure than for most men to release pressure from their touch.

Cha Am, Thailand

Chinese massage is usually accompanied by one word, pain.  Chinese massage is full contact, of course you can ask your masseuse to go easy, but they will probably ignore you, or just go easy enough.  My friend commented once, you should cry during a good massage, because the tears are toxins released from your body.  I am like, which part of relaxing does that include?

So, you can get a good Chinese massage, but you have to be prepared for some pain.  In addition, you might also get some accupressure or cupping included.  Accupressure is where pressure might be placed and released on particular trouble spots.  This, I highly recommend, because it increases blood flow.  Cupping, I would recommend only for the brave.  It involves hot cups being placed in position on the body and released over time.  They build pressure as they remain.  They can leave marking on the body for weeks after... after a few days, when the pain is gone, you can feel the effects of a good Chinese massage.  This is not the Chinese massage we are familiar with in America, sort of like American Chinese food, different concept.

The final massage I received about a week ago was the Balinese massage.  My friends comment - that is a sexy massage.  I don't know if I laughed harder at that comment or the surprise when they handed us disposable underwear to wear during the massage.  The masseuses and I had big laughs.  Still, after it was finished I had to promise never to have a Balinese massage again, not because there was any hanky panky, but because it was too relaxing.  I don't know if my masseuse was that relaxing for me, I mean I was coming down with a cold, so maybe I wasn't in to the massage enough.  But from where my friend was sitting, I was too relaxed.  The technique is a combo between Chinese and Thai techniques, easy and then heavy pressure.  Also they pay plenty of attention to the feet and as well as the full body.  In the end they got my money because of the advertising of the poster.  The lady looks so ready for a massage...

Looking forward to another Thai massage soon, but seeing how I am headed back to China looks like I might have to put my body through the abuses of a Chinese massage next time I need to relieve some stress.  Much better than reaching for a drink or a pack of cigarettes.  At least with a good masseuse.  Enjoying Bali.

Bali Sunset

Bali.

Where to start, maybe the headache.  This is day five I think.  Anyone that knows me also probably knows I have really bad headaches that drone on for a few days.  I don't make much of them, but every now and then they catch up with me.  This time, I managed to get sick on the way to Bali and so not only did I have the headache I had a cold and sore throat.  All with the beach 3 minutes away, meanwhile me in bed sweating and moaning like a Black Martin Sheen from Apocalypse Now, minus the liquor and the war of course.

The flight from Kuala Lumpur was wonderful enough.  Beautiful skies, short, excited.  Hop off the plane and clear customs in a breeze.  There is an ATM there so you can pay for your Visa on Arrival.  It is no sweat at all.  When I hit the ATM, I realize I have finally made it!  I take out 1.2 Million IDR.  So I am officially a Balinese Millionaire, huh?  But that is only 100 USD.  So After I pay the 25 for the visa on arrival I am no longer a Balinese Millionaire.

  I am thinking finally Bali and respectable beaches.  Anyone who knows me also knows I love a good beach.  So I am looking forward to coming in, getting some shut eye and heading out to the beach.  First things first, I remember I needed to catch up with my oldest daughter in the states so I give her a call.  We talk for a while.  I look at the clock and it is past 2 in the morning.

No big thing I figure, I can stay up as late as anyone.  Wake up the next morning ready to head to the beach.  First things first, a proper fresh made watermelon juice.  Before I can have it though, I have to walk and get it.  That's when the headache came, then the body aches.  Later in the day, the cold.  So no beach for me.

While waiting for the room to be prepared I figured the hotel spa might be a good idea.  I mean the price can't be beat.   85,000 IDR is about 7 USD.  If you had a bad headache and wanted more than anything to sleep what would you do?  Plus the sign looked so promising...  so I decide to go for it.

The massage was more than respectable, and the prices on everything here are amazing for value.  For example, my room is under 30 USD a night, although you could pay 200 USD a night as well.  Food can be had for about 2-3 USD for a more than respectable meal.  Although I would have to say the food in Malaysia is better.  Still, there is value to be had if you avoid touts and do your own thing.  This one guy wanted me to spend 1,000,000 IDR (85 USD) for a pair of flip flops out of our mutual love of Obama.  As I ran out of his store disgusted he yelled, okay 100,000.  Found them later on for 45,000 (3.50 USD) at a convenience store.

So last night I finally made it out to the beach.  Still with the headache, and the beach made it a bit better but going on day five... at least there is a wonderful beach!

The dog runs past us, cuts me a look as he runs out to the water alone to swim.  He looks at me like, what are you waiting for?  Oh you don't know?  Then a second later he is in the water doing his thing...

More to come.

Penang Hill

Photo album from Penang Hill

So I try to avoid places that are overpriced.  I mean, why should I pay money to climb to the top of a hill, if I can walk there for free.  I have legs, I like to exercise, and that is especially true if it costs three times more for me to ride to said hilltop than a local resident.  I don't want to be overcharged.

All that is true, but sometimes, when the hill is huge, really huge and the view is really really beautiful you have to pay.  The ride up was worth it, and you were paying for the ride and not the view...

Penang Hill is a place to spend an afternoon if you are in Penang.  I wish I had come here sooner.  If for no other reason, for the monkeys.  They seem to have a good sense of humor and are willing and able to eat if you offer them food.  Of course you should never do that.  I mean, you might end up with a lifelong friend, like the monkey from Monkeyshine, who comes to think of you as his or hers.

Also worth note, besides the beautiful views and the monkeys is the wonderful garden - Monkey Cup Garden, more than worth the extra few RM to tour.  They have a lovely garden of not only monkey cups but also other exotic plants, insects and the like.  In addition there are a couple restaurants on the top of the hill, not to mention a temple and a mosque as well.

Monkey Cups

Venus Flytrap

• Photo album From Penang Hill

Where to start? Penang

Photo album of Kek Lok Si

Maybe best to start where I am and talk about where I was, and then where I am going.  Hope you can keep up!  First of all, this is my second trip to Malaysia.  The first time I visited only Penang, then took the sleeper train to Bangkok.  I thought it was an interesting trip, but a little bland.  We stayed in a area called Batu Ferringhi, which if I remember right means foreigner's rock.  All in all the area is overdeveloped.  The small beach is nice enough, but there isn't much there.

This time, I decided to start the voyage in Kuala Lumpur and then make my way to Penang via a cheap Air Asia flight.  The flight was under 30USD and was less than an hour.  Instead of staying in Batu Ferringhi I stayed in Georgetown with its wonderful selection of food and proximity to temples and shopping.  I mean I can walk out of my hotel to the temple of Quan Yin, then turn eat breakfast, or have coffee and head out to the beach or sightseeing.  All on the bus route from Komtar center.

So the first day in Penang, that is exactly what we did.  We woke up and had porridge.  What - porridge?  Yup, porridge, Chinese people have a thing for porridge apparently, so me and the lady had some porridge, it was pretty darn good rice porridge too.

She cracks me up when she says porridge, it is more like porridge aye.  But same thing.  I mostly eat vegetarian, but Chinese tend to have to cut up some meat and put it in everything.  Since this is a Cantonese joint, they cut up chicken and put it in the porridge, more or less just for flavor.  It is a pretty delicious dish.

In my opinion, and I suspect I am in the minority, Kuala Lumpur kicks Penang's butt insofar as food, but the food here is pretty good too.  You just have to hit the small places and avoid bigger places.  Anyways, after we ate we walked to the temple of Quan Yin and made offerings.

Yesterday we visited an Indian temple when we visited Penang Hill.  The thing most interesting about Penang is that all religions are represented here and they all manage to live in peace.  This is a mostly Muslim city though, so you hear the call to prayer throughout the day but there are plenty of Chinese who are mostly Buddhist or Taoist.  Then there is a Christian population, not to mention all the Godless heathen tourists that come through for thrills on the way to or from Bangkok.

Me, I am here waiting to travel onwards.  All the cheap flights flow through Malaysia right now.  Air Asia is a savior for budget scrapped travelers like me.  So thanks to Quan Yin and Buddha and Jesus and Allah and Jehovah for that.  Anyways, besides the temples there is the food, but I will talk about that on another day.  Good food, good temples and monkeys... back to the temple of Quan Yin.

There is a bigger temple in the middle of the island that I went to earlier today.  It is the largest buddhist temple in Asia, from what I read.  This temple Kek Lok Si has a huge statue of Quan Yin, this one is like a neighborhood buddhist temple.  After that we went to Penang Hill and Monkey Cup Garden.  I will have to make a photo album of that trip.  For now, enjoy a few pictures of Malaysia and Georgetown in Penang.

Photo album of Kek Lok Si

Free from China - Well Not Really

So I managed to get out of China for a bit.  China is a wonderful country and is a very interesting place to live.  In fact, I think it has replaced Egypt as my favorite country to visit or live in.  However, there is a problem with living in China, China has an ongoing war with all things google.  As such, blogger is not very easily accessed inside China, thus the blog hiatus.

While I am out from behind the great firewall I will be updating the blog on all things I have done while in China and around and about Asia.  I managed to take some wonderful pictures and have a fun and exciting time.  I lost a few traveling companions along the way, but I will be catching up with the best of them soon.  Also, I managed to destroy a SD card with some of the best pictures of the journey.  Of course it wasn't backed up.  So it reminded me that I needed to start putting some of my favorites that I did keep on the web.

Anyway - it looks like I will be heading back to China soon anyway.  Business before pleasure.  Have some things to take care of before I can move on to more exciting locals, like Nepal and India.  But in the meantime, I will  be updating the blog with my travels to Beijing, Zhaoqing, Hong Kong, Bali, and a train journey I am planning from Saigon (Ho Chi Min City), Vietnam to Yunnan, China and further through to Hong Kong.  That should be quite the adventure, and should put my 10 words of Mandarin to the test...

Bangkok Redux

Still thinking about buying a new tablet I decided the place to go was MBK.  MBK is not a mall, it is like a megamall-flea-market-bazaar.  The first time I walked in I fell in love.  I mean, I like walking in a store like a Macy's or a Dillard's and picking up a nice Polo or something along those lines, but I have to admit that I love the idea of being able to select from even more stylish premium knock offs at half the price.  There is just something in that, and then the selections are often better than Ralph Lauren or whoever would have though of himself.

If you haven't figured it out yet, Bangkok is a shoppers paradise.  Not only do you have all the premium stores you could think of lined up down one street in malls such as Siam Square, Siam Paragon and Central World, but you have malls such as MBK and stalls lined up and down in nooks and crannies selling even more stuff.  MBK is eight levels of shopping for anything you can think of.  I was looking for electronics.  A tablet, and among the rows and rows of cellular merchants I knew I would find what I was looking for.

MBK is about a twenty minute cab ride from where we are living now.  So we flagged a cab down, most people say you should avoid the parked cabs, because they are waiting to exploit tourists.  The cabbie I flagged down sized me up and started the meter.  I let out a sigh of relief.  I have gotten in cabs where the driver refused to start the meter or refused my destination.  Cabbies here often go after the quick tourist dollars at the expense of an honest fare.

We passed through the center of Bangkok, over the river and past the train station, soon we were at MBK.  The meter read 75 baht, I gave the driver a 100, about three dollars and thanked him. The hulking mass greets with hustle and bustle and the first thing I noted walking up.  A school girl walked in right before me giggling.  I notice another, and allow her to pass.  Two others pass giggling, cutting me off, I can't help but laugh.  The uniforms and the giggling are way too much for me.

We pass security who inspect my bag and we proceed up the escalators.  They take you up and up and up.  Floor five, we approach electronic chaos.  There are row after row of merchants selling Apple stuff, and behind them row after row of merchants selling Samsung stuff.  The guy I approach doesn't want to bargain that much, just enough.  He is way too shrew, perhaps I should have purchased elsewhere.  However, he has just the model I want, as well as used models of others I can compare it to for value and quality.  I decide to buy the Samsung Tab 7.7.  The Samsung Tab 7 would have been too slow, and the 10.1 too big.  As I buy I wonder if I should have waited until Apple introduces their 7 inch tablet in a few weeks.

After we buy the tablet we head down the street to the Siam Paragon.  We window shop as the beautiful people shop for Rolexes and such.  We marvel at the manmade river inside the mall.  We decide against eating in the food court and soon head home.

Tech Tuk Tuk

So earlier in the day I sold my Samsung Note.  Why?  Because there is a new one on the way and the price on this one will drop as soon as it is released, because the battery life was never what I wanted it to be, because it was sometimes just too big, because a new iphone is near too and that is interesting even if I know that Apple has slowly become that 1984 ad where it mocked its' future self, then plus I wanted a bigger tablet to read books on and to hook up a bluetooth keyboard to and do things like blog entries like this one completely mobile.  So for all those reasons I sold the Samsung Galaxy Note - but we will always have Paris together - those crisp beautiful 8 megapixel pictures of the Place de la Concorde, but it is all Galaxy Tab 7.7 at this point.  But this is the story of how I got my new Tab 7.7 and the mysteries of the Tuk Tuk.

It started with Singh or Digi Singh, as his email pseudonymed him and an ill advised late night trip to meet down in front of the Starbucks on Khao San Road.  He had already talked me down to an incredible bargain price on the device.  But out with the old and in with the new.  Anyway, he asked to meet at midnight, I agreed, selecting the place carefully.  I am suspicious, device hidden, no money on my person.  I mean this is everything you shouldn't do, midnight craigslist deal in Bangkok???  But the difference is the police station is next door and Khao San Road has its night face on.

Youngsters too young to drink in America have already bought their fake ID for back home, stashed them away to be claimed or not in the airport by TSA and are now on their third or fourth round.  You know, the last one you might remember clearly.  They are thinking something like, wow, wouldn't it be cool if there was something like this in America...  Then this big baldheaded Black guy comes along and blows even that memory and now all I remember is the sweat on his head.  Damn it is still so hot, oh my god... and so the night on Khao San goes.  But I am not on Khao San for that, or the inviting looks, or the questioning looks.  I have rushed past all that to catch up with Digi Singh and his sweaty baht notes, crumpled.  It's like I am selling the Note into some torrid uncouth digital slavery of some kind.  Nah, actually he came with his wife, who looked really nice, probably her I was emailing.  He was buying it for her, but I could tell from the look in his eyes he wanted it more for himself after seeing it.  I could see him weaving a story for her of why he needed it more, as I was explaining how to use it and what not to do and so on. More on that later...  So no funny business and our deal is done.  He and his wife are already there when I arrive with money in hand.

Next day we head out on tuk tuk.  Riding in a tuk tuk is an adventure in itself.  It begins before you get in.  Most of the drivers solicit your business, particularly when it is clear you have other business to attend to, elsewhere, where they can't go.  Then when you need one, they are nowhere to be found, not to mention that if they are they will try to extort every baht from you possible.  They will start out at some insane price, double what a cab would cost, and slowly bring it down.  I mean a dollar or so isn't a big deal, but there are principles.  Who wants to ride on the back of a hot hell trap for twice the amount you would pay to ride in a semi-normal airconditioned cab?  Then of course there is the expression of implicit 'knowing' etched into the face of some of the drivers, like they know some things I might not be ready to know. All that said, they are a cheap and easy, although, crazy, horrifying, fast way to travel.

I am on the way to Bangkok's Chinatown, Yaowarat, to shop for the tablet.  I will get on to describing Chinatown proper some other time.  It really deserves its' own post, just because, but that is for later.  We are interested in one particular part of Chinatown, the electronics market area.  There is about a two or three block area where there is nothing but buildings dedicated to cellular phones and communication technology.  There are rows and rows of stores selling cellphone parts and cellphone accessories and cellular phones and tablets.  So I figured I would make my way either there or this other mall a little further away called MBK to make a purchase.

A tuc tuc driver approaches me as I am walking to look for a cab.  Candice frowns.  "Tuc-tuk?"  He asks the question innocent enough, as I shrug to Candice I ask, "how much to Chinatown?"  He insists that we don't want to go to Chinatown, after I insist, he counters, nothing open in Chinatown.  I'm thinking, "What?"  Then, he asks why we want to go.  I tell him about the tablet I want to buy.  He slowly shakes his head, as if giving permission.  Then, "200 baht."  200 baht, I tell him is too much.  He asks how much I want to pay.  I tell him for that much I could get a cab there twice and then some.  Then he has an idea.  I see Candice shudder.  He tells us we go with him to two shops and then all we will have to pay him is 20 baht, maybe less.  I already know the deal and agree.

The first place we head to is a tailor.  I am kind of geeked to be going to one, because I have avoided them for a while.  The tailors on Khao San road all have a bad name, because their quality is said to be poor.  I don't know if it is true but it stands to reason, so I have been avoiding them, even though they are friendly and really try to connect with me, in particular.  I think that is just the Nepalese mafia doing there thing, but they seem to be nice, but I don't need a cheap cheap suit.  I need a nicely tailor made inexpensive suit, after the weather changes from being so damn hot.  So our driver takes us to a tailor, away from our normal touts.

So we walk into the tailor shop.  The deal is, if the tuk tuk drives a customer to these places, he gets free gas, they give him a gas card or something.  Most of the time they waylay people, but they have all asked me for permission and given a free or next to free ride if I agreed.  If I have nothing else to do I will, but so far I have been to a couple of tour companies, a couple of tailors and a jeweler.  I found out, if you ask the driver, he will take you to the type of shop you want to go to, if he knows one that he can get a gas card for driving you to.  I mean, I haven't bought anything at one, but I started talking to the tailor at this shop trying to build a relationship.  I figured at some point I might buy a suit and maybe I could try a shirt out and see if he could make a quality shirt.

However he got angry when I told him I wanted a business card so I could think about it and maybe visit again.  I wasn't expecting that, I mean to me, you have to build a relationship with a tailor.  That is kind of a close bond.  The Nepalese mafia was happy to give me a card and are friendly to boot.  But no, this tailor, he just wanted to measure me, take a deposit and like that be done.  So we left as he was pouting.  The tuk tuk driver saw some of this and asked as we got back in, "are you okay?"  I felt debased.

We next head to a travel agent.  A young woman is selling us a trip to the south of Thailand.  Apparently there is this island that has a full moon party going on this weekend.  Whatever goes on there at this party requires a full day recuperation added to your itinerary.  Her manager and her just know that is the trip that we need... we decline.  They assure us we have to go because there is a full moon this weekend, and not another one for a whole month.  "I am like, really? How could you predict that?"  I try to let her down gently because I mean, I would have thought about some trip, but not that one and then the other trip was vastly overpriced.  But I did find out there is a monastery where buddhist monks care for tigers.  I thought that was the coolest thing.  Maybe in the future we will go there.  I assume the tigers are not a threat or they are distanced from unsuspecting meat, I mean tourists.  I will have to research that one a bit.  As for the moonlight party, that will have to wait about 13 or so odd years, I will be 53, Jacob, my youngest will be 18...

So we are back in the tuk tuk racing through traffic, cutting off cars, other tuk tuks, motorcycles, pedestrians.  I think, maybe I should carry something to give the confused cut off pedestrians we pass by, you know, on future tuk tuk trips, flowers, donuts, fruit.  We arrive, the driver stops about two blocks from our destination and motions the direction that we want to go toward to hit Charoen Krung, one of the main roads in Chinatown.  I hand him 20 baht, or 66 cent, for an adventurous ride of about 3 miles.

Chinatown at dusk

Candice comments about walking the last few blocks and I point her attention to the traffic that surrounds us.  It is never a good idea to sit ten minutes in traffic for a two minute walk.  She agrees and we walk down the way to cellular heaven, or something more like a cellular flea market.  Time is running out, at 5 PM the cellular merchants start closing up and the restaurants and street food come out.  We aren't there for that today though, but as a side note they sell barbecue shrimp that it is inexpensive and delicious, at least that is what they say.

We are here looking for a tablet though and there is so much to see.  There is a motorcycle driving on the sidewalk towards us as we try to cross the street.  We move to avoid him.  We cross and are here.  There are no name, generic tablets directly in front of the building we are approaching that cost about a hundred bucks, but I want something with a name attached, a Samsung or Acer or Sony.  We go more towards the back of the first building, there are smiley faced antenna plugs and colorful cases and giggling school girls and neon colors all around.  They giggle or look at the tall Americans confused as we move past.  We pass by ipad screens sold as replacements and other parts labeled and stretched out.  We go upstairs and there is more of the same for four flights.  After that I figure we should try another building.  Smiling schoolgirls giggling, more neon, more cloned tablets, still not what I want.  Then we find it... and she wont budge on the price.

MBK Center and deals galore...

I finally agree on the price, but she only has it in white.  NO DEAL.  As we walk back towards Khao San Road, towards Dinso Road, where we actually live, Candice gives me a hard stare that indicates we will be taking a cab home.  She is cool though, and we make plans to head to MBK the next day, where we will continue our hunt for the tablet deal of the century.













So long for now...

     

Kids at MBK

Bangkok

Bangkok, my first thought was that this reminded me of my old favorite city in the world - before the hurricane came and ruined it even more, New Orleans.  That thought came as we were on the way in from the airport, and it has been that way ever since.  I love Bangkok, awesome, fast moving, mellow people, good food, great shopping, and people coming in just to be here, every single day... and I haven't even been to the other side of town yet.

Khao San Road has been our base area.  I will describe this as many peoples' base area.  If you are a backpacker type you will probably start out here.  The area is centered around so many Buddhist temples it isn't even funny.  Plus there are cheap accommodations, cheap food, cheap t-shirt, cheap fruit drinks and the list goes on.  The history of the area is that the Buddhists were in the area keeping it chill, with not that much money, but ultimate vibes.  Then the hippies came, and while they were in the business of morphing into yuppies, and whatnot, their children started coming and so on and so on.  Meanwhile, the area managed to maintain just enough of its charm, and plenty of hawkers and touters came along, selling anything from cheaply tailored suites to as certain movies would claim, snake's blood.  I haven't seen any snake's blood, but I do know where a snake park or museum is on the other side of town, and I have heard snake's blood is sold in Chinatown, but that is another blog post, because Chinatown in Bangkok really deserves its own blog post, plus I plan on walking over there tomorrow.  However, if you want a cheap, cheaply tailored suit, apparently, Khao San is the place, especially if you want the very special, soul brother discount.

Philosophical Question - Do White Americans get greeted as - OObama - with the look of a used car salesman and that magical pointing finger gesture thingy, or is that reserved for Black American visitors (the Black Americans that no one except touts believe exist).

Answer - Doesn't matter, just be thankful W. has left the building... wherein you might be getting spit at, given the finger or cursed, I mean literally cursed, not cursed at.  Anyways...

Khao San Road at night

Some of the walkable cool things to do close by the area we live in, known as Rattanakosin, are exploring temples, hopping on the boat to head down or up river, or of course grabbing a bite on Khao San Road, people watching on Khao San Road, visiting the Golden Mountain, which is free or just finding a park to chill out.  Rattanakosin is kind of the center of all the temples in town so if you just walk down the street in any direction a wat (or temple) will cross your path.  It is funny seeing the buddhist monks out and about, and if you go out in the morning they will be out seeking donations for their food for the day.

Last week we walked over to the Grand Palace and pondered going in.  Since we are on a pretty tight budget this month, I suggested we actually go in on the next trip.  I am sure it will be nicer on the inside than the outside, but at 400 baht a person that is some 2400 baht, or 80 dollars, that's a lot of Thai noodles, or at least that was my thought at the time.  So we took some pictures of the opulent outside and laughed as the intercom system reminded visitors not to believe anything touts said about the palace being closed, in a very sterile voice and to only listen to the completely disinterested guards' advice about where the entrance was.

Earlier in the week I had mentioned to Candice that there was this meditation center that offered free classes in one of the temples.  I thought it would be cool to at least peek inside.  So naturally, after thinking how cool it would be to do something for free, rather than pay 80 dollars, we run into a sign in front of Wat Mahathat, offering free mediation classes.  I figure because it is so early in the morning, we might not get our meditation on, but still, something tells me to go in.  I am a bit afraid to go all the way into the inner shrines to buddha and what not, but this lady sneaks up behind Candice and becomes our tour guide.  Immediately I start to wonder, but just the night before we had this conversation about letting someone sell their story, because sometimes touts aren't all bad, or something like that.  Or was it that all friendly people aren't touts, you get the gist.  Anyway, she has us take our shoes off and takes us in the back of temple and gets to work.


She starts off stating that she is a tourist too, "we same, same" and she is from Chang Mai, she has her game tight.  Then she blows it, because she knows every tourist sight and destination, not to mention her perfect English.  But it was a good thing she was there because she did two things for me.  The first, she took us into all the areas in the temple I wouldn't have gone, she apparently has some kind of buddhist mojo working good...  She bows to buddha and is trying to work her mojo on Candice, while sizing me up.  She mentions that she is a midwife which I think is so cool.  She also shows us the beautiful Black buddah, making note of it, as I did.  Then she did something else that was both good and bad.  She advises us how to take the boat around town and tells us where we can get discount tickets to do so, of course this is the tout.  But she arranges a tuck tuck to take us to her tourist agency and then back to our guest house for 50 baht.  I mean, I didn't want to hear the tout, but I had been avoiding tuck tucks, just because.  By her doing that, she helped me see them as a practical, although a scary as hell travel option.  I mean, everywhere isn't a cab travel location, for those, you have the tuck tuck.  Mostly I prefer the boat, an express boat trip on the river costs 15 baht per person, that is like 50 cent.  Who could beat that?  So a tout isn't always a bad thing, well at least not a bad bad, bad thing.  Of course, I didn't buy any tours, but I am just saying.  I mean, in the tuck tuck we were both laughing about her intimate knowledge of Bangkok, having only been here twice from Chang Mai, but on the other hand she told us of a really cool detination,   Anyway, after that day we started going more and more outside the Rattanakosin area and made it into Chinatown.